24 February 2025
Derma Roller Not Delivering? Here’s What You Might Be Doing Wrong
If you’ve started using a derma roller on your scalp to improve a thinning hairline or fine patches but aren’t seeing the results you expected, don’t worry - you might just need to make few tweaks to your routine.
Derma rolling is a clever tool that works by stimulating the scalp and encouraging regrowth, but getting the best results requires the right technique, frequency and aftercare.
Here are the most common mistakes that could be holding you back - and how to fix them!
But First, How Do Derma Rollers Work?
A derma roller is a small handheld tool with tiny needles that create microchannels in the scalp. These micro-injuries stimulate blood flow, bringing oxygen and nutrients to the hair follicles. This process helps to strengthen existing hair and can encourage new growth in thinning areas. When combined with a hair growth serum, the microchannels allow deeper penetration of nourishing ingredients for maximum results.
1. Rushing the Process
Why It Matters: Your scalp needs time to adjust to derma rolling treatment, so going too hard and too fast can cause irritation rather than encourage growth.
What to Do: Start slowly - we recommend using your roller twice a week at first, applying a light pressure. This allows your scalp to build up tolerance while still benefiting from the increased blood flow and stimulation.
2. Using the Wrong Technique
Why It Matters: Rolling incorrectly can reduce effectiveness and even tangle or damage existing hair.
What to Do:
If you have hair, roll in one direction to prevent pulling or snagging.
If your hair is very fine or short, rolling back and forth can be beneficial.
Cover the entire area using a star-shaped pattern, rolling five times in each direction before moving on to the next section.
3. Skipping Scalp Preparation
Why It Matters: Rolling over an unclean scalp can push dirt, oil and bacteria into the skin, leading to irritation.
What to Do:
Always start with a clean scalp. Washing beforehand removes buildup and makes sure microchannels stay clear.
If you still have hair in the area, rolling on slightly damp hair can help prevent tangling.
4. Expecting Hair to Regrow in Dormant Follicles
Why It Matters: Derma rolling supports existing hair follicles, but unfortunately it can’t bring back hair in areas where follicles have been left dormant for a long time. Learn the early signs of hair loss.
What to Do:
Be realistic about your expectations. Derma rolling is most effective for:
Fine temples
Thinning hairlines
Small patches of fine or thinning hair
If you're unsure whether derma rolling is right for your hair loss type, speak to one of our hair and scalp specialists for tailored advice. There are other methods to prevent, stop and reverse hair loss.
5. Not Using a Serum for Maximum Growth
Why It Matters: Derma rolling creates tiny channels in the scalp, allowing nourishing products to penetrate deeper and work more effectively.
What to Do: Apply a specially designed hair growth serum after rolling to boost results. If you're just starting out, wait 30 minutes before applying a serum to prevent sensitivity. Once your scalp adjusts, you can apply it immediately after rolling.
6. Forgetting to Replace Your Roller
Why It Matters: Over time, the needles on your derma roller can naturally become dull or bent, making them less effective and more likely to cause irritation.
What to Do: Replace your roller every three months to make sure you’re always using sharp, clean needles that can create precise microchannels.
7. Skipping Progress Tracking
Why It Matters: Hair growth is a slow process, and it’s easy to forget how far you’ve come.
What to Do: Take before-and-after photos every three months so you can see your progress over time. Seeing visible improvements can help keep you motivated!
8. Cleaning Your Roller
Why It Matters: It is essential to prevent bacteria buildup for safe, effective use. Here’s the best way to clean it properly after each use:
Disinfect with Alcohol or Hydrogen Peroxide. Submerge for 5-10 minutes (no longer) to remove bacteria. Then air dry.
Cool boiling water for 3-5 minutes before submerging your roller for 5-10 minutes. Then air dry.
Never EVER share your Derma Roller!
Ready to Start Your Hair Growth Journey?
Derma rolling is an amazing tool for encouraging thicker, healthier hair, but it works best when combined with proper technique, consistency and the right aftercare.
If you’re looking for more personalised advice or hair and scalp treatments, reach out to us at Hove Hair Clinic on 01273 711140. We’re here to help you achieve your goals with expert guidance and bespoke care.